An accessible and practical review of cosmetics and OTC drug-cosmetic products
In the newly revised second edition of Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology, veteran educator and researcher Dr. Gabriella Baki delivers a comprehensive discussion of cosmetics and personal care products, including coverage of basic concepts, ingredient selection, formulation technology, and testing. The book offers a clear and easy-to-understand review of cosmetics and over the counter (OTC) drug-cosmetic products available in the United States.
In this latest edition, the author expands on general concepts and adds brand-new chapters on the basics of cosmetics testing, ingredients, and skin lightening products. Each chapter includes a summary of common abbreviations with questions provided online, alongside a solutions manual for instructors.
Readers will also find: - A thorough introduction to the basic definitions, claims, and classifications of cosmetics and OTC drug-cosmetic products - Comprehensive explorations of the current rules and regulations for cosmetics and OTC drug-cosmetic products in the United States and European Union - Detailed review of cosmetic ingredients, functions, and typical uses both in a dedicated a chapter and included within various others - Practical coverage of good manufacturing practices for cosmetics, including documentation, buildings and facilities, equipment, and personnel - Fulsome review of a variety of skin and hair care products, color cosmetics, and other personal care products
Perfect for undergraduate and graduate students studying cosmetic science in chemistry, chemical engineering, pharmaceutical, biomedical, and biology departments, Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology will also benefit cosmetic chemists, cosmetic product formulators, cosmetic scientists, quality control managers, cosmetic testing specialists, and technicians.
Table of Contents
Author Biography xxiii
Preface xxv
Acknowledgments xxvii
About the Companion Website xxix
Part 1 General Concepts 1
1 Basic Definitions. Claims. Classification of Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 3
Learning Objectives 3
Key Concepts 4
1.1 What Is Cosmetic Science? 5
1.2 Basic Definitions 8
1.3 How is a Product’s Intended Use Established in the US? 13
1.4 Classification of Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 14
1.5 Cosmetic Claims 15
1.6 A Special Category: Soap 27
Glossary of Terms 28
Abbreviations 30
References 30
2 Cosmetic Ingredients and Active Ingredients Used in OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 33
Learning Objectives 33
Key Concepts 34
2.1 Cosmetic Ingredients 35
2.2 Active Ingredients 55
Glossary of Terms 59
Abbreviations 61
References 62
3 Product forms for Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 65
Learning Objectives 65
Key Concepts 66
3.1 Introduction 66
3.2 What is a Product Form? 67
3.3 Product Forms for Cosmetic Applications 68
Glossary of Terms 78
Abbreviations 79
References 80
4 Government and Independent Organizations in the Cosmetic Industry 81
Learning Objectives 81
Key Concepts 82
4.1 Introduction 83
4.2 Food and Drug Administration 83
4.3 Personal Care Product Council 85
4.4 Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel 85
4.5 Federal Trade Commission 86
4.6 National Advertising Division 87
4.7 Environmental Protection Agency 87
4.8 International Fragrance Association (IFRA) 88
4.9 Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) 88
4.10 Flavor and Extract Manufacturers Association (FEMA) 88
4.11 European Commission 89
4.12 Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety 89
4.13 Cosmetics Europe - the Personal Care Association 89
Glossary of Terms 90
Abbreviations 90
References 91
5 Current Rules and Regulations for Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products in the United States and European Union 93
Learning Objectives 93
Key Concepts 94
5.1 Introduction 95
5.2 Regulation in the US 95
5.3 Regulation in the EU 104
Glossary of Terms 108
Abbreviations 108
References 109
6 Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practices 111
Learning Objectives 111
Key Concepts 112
6.1 Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practices 112
Glossary of Terms 119
Abbreviations 120
References 120
7 Labeling Tutorial for Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products Marketed in the United States. INCI Names 121
Learning Objectives 121
Key Concepts 122
7.1 Introduction 123
7.2 Cosmetic Products 125
7.3 OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 130
7.4 INCI Naming 134
7.5 Do You Know the Exact Composition of a Cosmetic Product or OTC Drug-Cosmetic Product? 136
Glossary of Terms 137
Abbreviations 138
References 139
8 Testing of Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 141
Learning Objectives 141
Key Concepts 142
8.1 Product Development Cycle 143
8.2 Product Testing 144
Glossary of Terms 156
Abbreviations 157
References 157
Part 2 Skin Care Products 161
9 Skin Anatomy and Physiology 163
Learning Objectives 163
Key Concepts 164
9.1 Introduction 165
9.2 Structure and Function of Human Skin 165
9.3 Main Characteristics of Human Skin 172
Glossary of Terms 178
Abbreviations 180
References 180
10 Skin Cleansing Products 183
Learning Objectives 183
Key Concepts 185
10.1 Introduction 186
10.2 Types and Definition of Skin Cleansing Products 186
10.3 History of Using Skin Cleansing Products 187
10.4 How Skin Cleansers May Affect the Skin 188
10.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 191
10.6 Basic Concepts of Skin Cleansing Products 191
10.7 Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Skin Cleansing Products 195
10.8 Considerations When Selecting Skin Cleansing Products 211
10.9 Typical Quality Problems of Skin Cleansing Products 212
10.10 Evaluation of Skin Cleansing Products 216
10.11 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 231
10.12 Packaging of Skin Cleansing Products 233
Glossary of Terms 234
Abbreviations 236
References 237
11 Skin Moisturizing Products 243
Learning Objectives 243
Key Concepts 244
11.1 Introduction 245
11.2 Types and Definition of Skin Moisturizers 245
11.3 History of Using Skin Moisturizers 246
11.4 How Skin Moisturizers May Affect the Skin 247
11.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 249
11.6 Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Skin Moisturizers 249
11.7 Product Types 256
11.8 Considerations When Selecting Skin Moisturizers 259
11.9 Typical Quality Issues of Skin Moisturizer Formulations 260
11.10 Evaluation of Skin Moisturizing Products 260
11.11 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 267
11.12 Packing of Skin Moisturizers 268
Glossary of Terms 269
Acronyms 270
References 270
12 Products for Aging 275
Learning Objectives 275
Key Concepts 276
12.1 Introduction 277
12.2 Changes in Skin Structure and Function During Aging 277
12.3 Drug or Cosmetic? 281
12.4 Typical Ingredients Used in Topical Antiaging Products 282
12.5 Formulation Considerations of Topical Antiaging Products 287
12.6 Formulation Challenges of Common Antiaging Ingredients 290
12.7 Safety Concerns Regarding the Use of Topical Noninvasive Antiaging Ingredients 291
12.8 Packing of Antiaging Products 293
Glossary of Terms 293
Abbreviations 294
References 295
13 Products for Acne 301
Learning Objectives 301
Key Concepts 302
13.1 Introduction 302
13.2 Anatomy and Physiology of the Pilosebaceous Unit 303
13.3 Development of Acne 304
13.4 Symptoms and Types of Acne Vulgaris 307
13.5 Treatment of Acne Vulgaris 309
13.6 Formulation Considerations 314
13.7 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 315
13.8 Packaging of Anti-Acne Products 316
Glossary of Terms 316
Abbreviations 317
References 317
14 Skin Lightening Products 323
Learning Objectives 323
Key Concepts 324
14.1 Introduction 325
14.2 Skin Color and Production of Melanin 325
14.3 Common Hyperpigmention Lesions 327
14.4 History of Using Skin Lightening Products 329
14.5 Drug or Cosmetic? 329
14.6 How Skin Lightening Products May Affect the Skin 330
14.7 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 331
14.8 Typical Ingredients used in Skin Lightening Products 331
14.9 Formulation Considerations and Challenges for Topical Skin Lightening Products 334
14.10 Important Considerations When Using Skin Lightening Products 335
14.11 Typical Quality Issues of Skin Lightening Formulations 336
14.12 Evaluation of Skin Lightening Products 336
14.13 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 339
14.14 Packaging of Skin Lightening Products 340
Glossary of Terms 340
Abbreviations 341
References 341
15 Sun Care Products 347
Learning Objectives 347
Key Concepts 348
15.1 Introduction 349
15.2 Sun Protection Basics 350
15.3 Effects of UV Radiation on the Human Body 356
15.4 Types and Definition of Sun Care Products 358
15.5 History of Using Sun Care Products 359
15.6 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 360
15.7 Sunscreens 361
15.8 After-Sun Products 370
15.9 Typical Quality Problems of Sun Care Products 371
15.10 Evaluation of Sun Care Products 371
15.11 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 380
15.12 Packaging of Sun Care Products 382
Glossary of Terms 383
Abbreviations 385
References 385
Part 3 Hair Care Products 393
16 Hair Anatomy And Physiology 395
Learning Objectives 395
Key Concepts 396
16.1 Introduction 396
16.2 Structure and Function of Human Hair 397
16.3 Main Characteristics of Human Hair 400
Glossary of Terms 409
Abbreviations 411
References 411
17 Hair Cleansing and Conditioning Products 413
Learning Objectives 413
Key Concepts 414
17.1 Introduction 415
17.2 Types and Definition of Hair Cleansing and Conditioning Products 415
17.3 History of Using Hair Cleansing and Conditioning Products 416
17.4 How Hair Cleaning and Conditioning Products May Affect the Hair and Scalp 416
17.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 418
17.6 Hair Cleansing Products 419
17.7 Hair Conditioners 426
17.8 Typical Quality Issues of Hair Cleansing and Conditioning Products 430
17.9 Evaluation of Hair Cleansing and Conditioning Products 430
17.10 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 432
17.11 Packaging of Hair Cleansing and Conditioning Products 433
Glossary of Terms 433
Abbreviations 434
References 434
18 Hair Styling Products Hair Straightening Products and Hair Waving Products 439
Learning Objectives 439
Key Concepts 441
18.1 Introduction 442
18.2 Types and Definition of Hair Styling Hair Straightening and Hair Waving Products 442
18.3 History of Using Hair Styling Hair Waving and Hair Straightening Products 443
18.4 How Hair Styling Products and Procedures May Affect the Hair and Scalp 444
18.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 446
18.6 Hair Styling Products 447
18.7 Hair Styling Procedures 452
18.8 Typical Quality Issues of Hair Styling Hair Waving and Hair Straightening Products 460
18.9 Evaluation of Hair Styling Hair Waving and Hair Straightening Products 461
18.10 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 465
18.11 Packaging of Hair Styling Hair Waving and Hair Straightening Products 468
Glossary of Terms 468
Abbreviations 470
References 470
19 Hair Coloring Products 475
Learning Objectives 475
Key Concepts 476
19.1 Introduction 477
19.2 Types and Definition of Hair Coloring Products 477
19.3 History of Using Hair Coloring Products 478
19.4 How Hair Coloring Products May Affect the Scalp and Hair 479
19.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 481
19.6 Current US Regulation of Hair Dyes 481
19.7 Types Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Hair Coloring Products 482
19.8 Typical Quality Issues of Hair Coloring Products 489
19.9 Evaluation of Hair Coloring Products 490
19.10 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 490
19.11 Packaging of Hair Coloring Products 492
Glossary of terms 492
Abbreviations 494
References 494
Part 4 Color Cosmetics 497
20 Lip Makeup Products 499
Learning Objectives 499
Key Concepts 500
20.1 Introduction 501
20.2 Anatomy and Physiology of Human Lips 501
20.3 History of Using Lip Makeup Products 503
20.4 Types and Definition of Lip Makeup Products 504
20.5 How Lip Makeup Products May Affect the Lips 505
20.6 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 506
20.7 Typical Ingredients of Lip Makeup Products 506
20.8 Common Types of Lip Makeup Products 509
20.9 Formulation of Lip Makeup Products 511
20.10 Typical Quality Issues of Lip Makeup Products 515
20.11 Evaluation of Lip Makeup Products 517
20.12 Ingredient Causing Safety Concerns 519
20.13 Packaging of Lip Makeup Products 520
Glossary of Terms 520
Abbreviations 522
References 522
21 Eye Makeup Products 525
Learning Objectives 525
Key Concepts 526
21.1 Introduction 527
21.2 Anatomy and Physiology of Human Eyelids and Eyelashes 527
21.3 History of Using Eye Makeup Products 528
21.4 Types and Definition of Eye Makeup Products 529
21.5 How Eye Makeup Products May Affect the Eye Area 530
21.6 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 532
21.7 Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Eye Makeup Products 533
21.8 Typical Quality Issues of Eye Makeup Products 541
21.9 Evaluation of Eye Makeup Products 543
21.10 Safety Testing of Eye Cosmetics 547
21.11 Packaging of Eye Makeup Products 548
Glossary of Terms 549
Abbreviations 550
References 550
22 Facial Makeup Products 553
Learning Objectives 553
Key Concepts 554
22.1 Introduction 555
22.2 Types and Definition of Facial Makeup Products 555
22.3 History of Using Facial Makeup Products 556
22.4 How Facial Makeup Products May Affect the Skin 557
22.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 559
22.6 Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Facial Makeup Products 559
22.7 Typical Quality Issues of Facial Makeup Products 567
22.8 Evaluation of Facial Makeup Products 568
22.9 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 568
22.10 Packaging of Facial Makeup Products 570
Glossary of Terms 570
Abbreviations 571
References 571
23 Nail Care Products 575
Learning Objectives 575
Key Concepts 576
23.1 Introduction 577
23.2 Anatomy and Physiology of Human Nails 577
23.3 History of Using Nail Care Products 579
23.4 Types and Definition of Nail Care Products 580
23.5 How Nail Care Products May Affect the Human Nails 581
23.6 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 583
23.7 Functional Nail Care Products 583
23.8 Decorative Nail Care Products 585
23.9 Nail Polish Removers 593
23.10 Typical Quality Issues of Nail Care Products 594
23.11 Evaluation of Nail Care Products 595
23.12 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 598
23.13 Packaging of Nail Care Products 600
Glossary of Terms 601
Abbreviations 602
References 602
Part 5 Additional Personal Care Products 607
24 Oral and Dental Care Products 609
Learning Objectives 609
Key Concepts 610
24.1 Introduction 611
24.2 Anatomy and Physiology of the Human Oral Cavity 612
24.3 Review of the Most Common Oral and Dental Care Problems 613
24.4 History of Using Oral and Dental Care Products 617
24.5 Types and Definition of Oral and Dental Care Products 618
24.6 How Oral and Dental Care Products May Affect the Teeth and the Oral Cavity 619
24.7 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 620
24.8 Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Oral and Dental Care Products 621
Glossary of Terms 640
Abbreviations 641
References 642
25 Hair Removal Products 647
Learning Objectives 647
Key Concepts 648
25.1 Introduction 649
25.2 Review of the Structure and Function of Human Hair 649
25.3 History of Using Hair Removal Methods 651
25.4 Possible Methods for Removing Hair 652
25.5 Types and Definition of Hair Removal Products 656
25.6 How Hair Removal Products May Affect the Skin and Hair 657
25.7 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 659
25.8 Types Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Hair Removal Products 660
25.9 Typical Quality Issues of Hair Removal Products 671
25.10 Evaluation of Hair Removal Products 671
25.11 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 672
25.12 Packaging of Hair Removal Products 673
Glossary of Terms 673
Abbreviations 674
References 674
26 Deodorants and Antiperspirants 677
Learning Objectives 677
Key Concepts 678
26.1 Introduction 679
26.2 Anatomy and Physiology of Human Sweat Glands 679
26.3 Types and Definition of Products Reducing Body Odor 682
26.4 History of Using Deodorants and Antiperspirants 683
26.5 How Deodorants and Antiperspirants May Affect the Human Skin and Body 684
26.6 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 685
26.7 The Mechanism of Action of Deodorant and Antiperspirant Ingredients 685
26.8 Most Common Product Forms of Deodorants and Antiperspirants 687
26.9 Formulation of Deodorant and Antiperspirant Products 691
26.10 Typical Quality Issues of Deodorants and Antiperspirants 692
26.11 Evaluation of Deodorants and Antiperspirants 694
26.12 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 696
26.13 Packaging of Deodorants and Antiperspirants 698
Glossary of Terms 699
Abbreviations 700
References 700
27 Baby Care Products 705
Learning Objectives 705
Key Concepts 706
27.1 Introduction 707
27.2 Anatomical and Physiological Differences Between Baby and Adult Skin and Hair 707
27.3 Types and Definition of Baby Care Products 710
27.4 History of Using Baby Care Products 711
27.5 How Baby Care Products May Affect Baby Skin Hair and Eyes 711
27.6 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 714
27.7 Types Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Baby Care Products 714
27.8 Typical Quality Issues of Baby Care Products 722
27.9 Evaluation of Baby Care Products 722
27.10 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 723
27.11 Packaging of Baby Care Products 724
Glossary of Terms 725
Abbreviations 725
References 726
28 Feminine Hygiene Products 731
Learning Objectives 731
Key Concepts 732
28.1 Introduction 733
28.2 Anatomy and Physiology of the Female Genital Area 733
28.3 Types and Definition of Feminine Hygiene Products 736
28.4 History of Using Feminine Hygiene Products 738
28.5 How Feminine Hygiene Products May Affect the Human Body and Female Genital Area 739
28.6 Required Qualities and Characteristics and Consumer Needs 741
28.7 Types Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Feminine Hygiene Products 741
28.8 Typical Quality Issues of Feminine Hygiene Products 748
28.9 Evaluation of Feminine Hygiene Products 748
28.10 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 749
28.11 Packaging of Feminine Hygiene Products 750
Glossary of Terms 751
Abbreviations 752
References 752
29 Sunless Tanning Products 757
Learning Objectives 757
Key Concepts 758
29.1 Introduction 758
29.2 Types and Definition of Sunless Tanning Products 759
29.3 History of Using Sunless Tanning Products 759
29.4 How Sunless Tanners May Affect the Human Body 760
29.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 762
29.6 Types and Typical Ingredients of Sunless Tanning Products 762
29.7 Formulation Considerations 765
29.8 Typical Quality Problems of Sunless Tanners 767
29.9 Evaluation of Sunless Tanners 767
29.10 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 768
29.11 Packaging of Sunless Tanning Products 769
Glossary of Terms 769
Abbreviations 770
References 770
Index 773
