In the Third Edition of Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures, accomplished dermatologist Dr. Zoe Diana Draelos delivers the latest information on procedural innovations in the rapidly developing field of cosmetic dermatology. This new edition is structured to follow the typical patient’s cosmetic routing, from everyday moisturizing to adornment and anti-aging techniques. It includes summary boxes at the start of each section to allow for quick reference in a clinical setting, over 300 full-color images illustrate procedures, and demonstrates the benefits of cosmetic products and techniques.
Cosmetic Dermatology combines the expertise of leaders in research, industry, surgery, and practice to introduce cutting edge concepts and outline the best techniques in the cosmetic field. It addresses appearance issues affecting the skin, hair, and nails. The new edition offers a complete cosmetic regimen for the patients of any cosmetic dermatologist, whether hospital-based or in private practice. It also provides:
- A thorough introduction to basic concepts in dermatology, including skin physiology pertinent to cosmetic dermatology and the delivery of cosmetic actives
- A comprehensive exploration of skin hygiene products, including cleansers, moisturizers, and personal care products
- Practical discussions of adornments, including colored facial cosmetics, eye cosmetics, camouflaging products, nail cosmetics, and hair cosmetics
- In-depth examinations of anti-aging products and procedures, including cosmeceuticals, injectable anti-aging techniques, resurfacing techniques, and skin modulation techniques
Cosmetic Dermatology is perfect for practicing and academic dermatologists, trainee dermatologists, dermatology nurses, and skin care industry researchers It will also earn a place in the libraries of gynecologists, medical aestheticians, family practitioners, and plastic surgeons.
Table of Contents
List of Contributors, ix
Foreword, xiii
Preface, xiv
Part I: Basic Concepts, 1
Section 1: Skin Physiology Pertinent to Cosmetic Dermatology, 3
1 Epidermal Barrier, 5
Sreekumar Pillai, Megan Manco, Christian Oresajo, and Nada Baalbaki
2 Photoaging, 16
Kalee Shah, Kira Minkis, Jillian Havey Swary, and Murad Alam
3 Pigmentation and Skin of Color, 26
Jasmine C. Hollinger, Chesahna Kindred, and Rebat M. Halder
4 The Somatosensory System and Sensitive Skin, 37
Francis McGlone, David Reilly, and Zoe Diana Draelos
5 Novel, Compelling, Noninvasive Techniques for Evaluating Cosmetic Products, 47
Thomas J. Stephens and Lily I. Jiang
6 Contact Dermatitis and Topical Agents, 57
Emily C. Milam, Alexandra Price, Sarika Ramachandran, and David E. Cohen
7 Skin Exposome, 72
Gabrielle Sore and Stephen Lynch
8 Skin Microbiome: General Overview and Application Perspectives, 79
Magali Moreau and Yaxian Zhen
Section 2: Delivery of Cosmetic Skin Actives and Product Labeling, 89
9 Percutaneous Delivery of Cosmetic Actives to the Skin, 91
Sreekumar Pillai, Surabhi Singh, Christian Oresajo, and Nada Baalbaki
10 Creams and Ointments, 101
Irwin Palefsky
11 International Nomenclature Chemical Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook: Back-Label Ingredient Statement, 106
Eric S. Abrutyn
Part II: Hygiene Products, 115
Section 1: Cleansers, 117
12 Bar Cleansers, 119
K.P. Ananthapadmanabhan and Stacy Hawkins
13 Personal Cleansers: Body Washes, 134
Keith Ertel, Heather Focht, and Karl Wei
14 Facial Cleansers and Cleansing Cloths, 144
Susan Griffiths-Brophy, Erik J. Hasenoehrl, and Karl Wei
15 Hand Cleansers and Sanitizers, 151
Duane Charbonneau
16 Shampoos for Normal Scalp Hygiene and Dandruff, 165
James R. Schwartz, Eric S. Johnson, and Thomas L. Dawson
Section 2: Moisturizers, 175
17 Understanding the 4 Key Elements of Skin Moisturization, 177
Eric S. Abrutyn
18 Facial Moisturizers, 182
Yohini Appa
19 Hand and Foot Moisturizers, 189
Teresa M. Weber, Frank Rippke, Elke Groenniger, and Andrea M. Schoelermann
20 Sunless Tanning Products, 200
Peter Foltis, Angelike Galdi, and Christian Oresajo
21 Sunscreens, 204
Angelike Galdi, Peter Foltis, Brian Bodnar, Dominique Moyal, and Christian Oresajo
Section 3: Personal Care Products, 213
22 Antiperspirants and Deodorants, 215
Eric S. Abrutyn
23 Blade Shaving, 223
Kevin Cowley, Kristina Vanoosthuyze, Gillian McFeat, and Keith Ertel
Part III: Adornment, 231
Section 1: Colored Facial Cosmetics, 233
24 Facial Foundation, 235
Sylvie Guichard, Véronique Roulier, Brian Bodnar, and Audrey Ricard
25 Camouflage Techniques, 244
Anne Bouloc
26 Lips and Lipsticks, 252
Catherine Heusèle, Hervé Cantin, and Frédéric Bonté
27 Eye Cosmetics, 259
Florante Ricarte, David Singh, Pamela Wong-Putnam, and Sarah A. Vickery
Section 2: Nail Cosmetics, 269
28 Nail Physiology and Grooming, 271
Anna Hare and Phoebe Rich
29 Colored Nail Cosmetics and Hardeners, 280
Paul H. Bryson
30 Cosmetic Prostheses as Artificial Nail Enhancements, 289
Douglas Schoon
Section 3: Hair Cosmetics, 299
31 Hair Physiology and Grooming, 301
Maria Hordinsky, Sherman Chu, Ana Paula Avancini Caramori, and Jeff C. Donovan
32 Hair Dyes, 309
Rene C. Rust and Harald Schlatter
33 Permanent Hair Waving, 320
Annette Schwan-Jonczyk, Gerhard Sendelbach, Andreas Flohr, and Rene C. Rust
34 Hair Straightening, 331
Harold Bryant, Michael DeGeorge, Felicia Dixon, Angela Ellington, Andrew Greaves, and Crystal Porter
35 Hair Styling: Technology and Formulations, 340
Thomas Krause and Rene C. Rust
Part IV: Anti-aging, 351
Section 1: Cosmeceuticals , 353
36 Botanicals, 355
Carl R. Thornfeldt
37 Antioxidants and Anti-inflammatories, 366
Bryan B. Fuller
38 Peptides and Proteins, 388
Karl Lintner
39 Cellular Growth Factors and Exosomes, 401
Rahul C. Mehta, Gail K. Naughton, and Mitchel P. Goldman
40 Topical Cosmeceutical Retinoids, 408
Olivier Sorg, Gürkan Kaya, and Jean H. Saurat
41 Topical Vitamins, 420
John E. Oblong and Joseph H. Jansen
42 Clinical Uses of Hydroxyacids, 430
Barbara A. Green, Eugene J. Van Scott, and Ruey J. Yu
43 The Contribution of Dietary Nutrients and Supplements to Skin Health, 442
Helen Knaggs, Mark Bartlett, Steve Wood, Doug Burke, and Jin Namkoong
Section 2: Injectable Anti-aging Techniques, 451
44 Botulinum Toxins, 453
Margit L.W. Juhasz, Scott R. Freeman, and Joel L. Cohen
45 Hyaluronic Acid Fillers, 466
Mark S. Nestor and Daniel Fischer
46 Calcium Hydroxylapatite for Soft Tissue Augmentation, 474
Stephen Mandy
47 Autologous Skin Fillers, 479
Amer H. Nassar, Andrew S. Dorizas, and Neil S. Sadick
48 Polylactic Acid Fillers, 485
Jacob Beer, Soraya Azzawi, Kenneth R. Beer, and Aigen Alyx Rosen
Section 3: Resurfacing and Rejuvenation Techniques, 495
49 Superficial Chemical Peels, 497
M. Amanda Jacobs, Randall Roenigk, and Cassondra A. Ellison
50 Medium-Depth Chemical Peels, 505
Gary D. Monheit and Katherine T. Hrynewycz
51 Ablative Laser Resurfacing: Confluent and Fractionated, 516
Michael B. Lipp, Kunal Angra, and Mitchel P. Goldman
52 Non-ablative Lasers, 535
Katarina R. Kesty and David J. Goldberg
53 Dermabrasion, 547
Christopher B. Harmon and Daniel P. Skinner
54 Radiofrequency Microneedling in Cosmetic Dermatology, 555
Shaun Wootten and Lawrence A. Rheins
55 The Growing Role for Platelet Rich Plasma in Cosmetic Dermatology, 561
Lawrence A. Rheins, Shaun Wootten, and Lynn Begovac
Section 4: Implementation of Cosmetic Dermatology into Therapeutics, 569
56 Antiaging Regimens, 571
Karen E. Burke
57 Over-the-Counter Acne Treatments, 587
Kirsten Swenson, Emmy M. Graber, and Diane Thiboutot
58 Rosacea Regimens, 598
Joseph Bikowski and Zoe Diana Draelos
59 Eczema Regimens, 606
Zoe Diana Draelos
60 Psoriasis Regimens, 612
Arjun M. Bashyam, Varun K. Ranpariya, and Steven R. Feldman
Index, 618